A perfectly fitted trench coat transforms your entire appearance, while poor fit undermines even the highest quality garment. Understanding how a trench coat should fit—and how to evaluate fit when trying on—ensures you select a coat that flatters your proportions and serves you well for years to come.

This comprehensive fit guide covers every aspect of trench coat sizing, from taking measurements to understanding how different cuts suit different body types.

Understanding Trench Coat Fit Styles

Before examining specific fit details, understand that trench coats come in several intentional fit styles. "Proper fit" varies depending on which style you're evaluating.

Classic Fit

The traditional trench coat fit offers comfortable room through the body without appearing baggy. It accommodates layering over suits or knitwear while maintaining a defined silhouette. This remains the most versatile and widely flattering option.

Slim/Tailored Fit

Modern slim-fit trenches follow body contours more closely, creating a sleeker silhouette. These work best for those who layer minimally and prefer contemporary styling. Be cautious about sizing—slim fits require accurate measurements to avoid uncomfortable restriction.

Oversized/Relaxed Fit

Contemporary fashion embraces deliberately oversized trench coats. These intentionally roomy silhouettes make a statement and offer supreme comfort. The key is ensuring the oversized proportions appear intentional rather than simply too large.

đź’ˇ Fit Philosophy

The "right" fit depends on your personal style, body type, and intended use. A classic fit suits most situations and body types, but fashion-forward dressers might prefer slim or oversized options. Know what you're seeking before evaluating fit.

Key Fit Points to Evaluate

Shoulders

Shoulder fit forms the foundation of proper trench coat sizing. On traditional trench coats (those without raglan sleeves), the shoulder seam should align with your natural shoulder point—the bony protrusion where your arm meets your shoulder.

For raglan-sleeved trenches, the diagonal seam should create a smooth line from collar to underarm without pulling or excess fabric bunching at the shoulder.

🔑 The Shoulder Rule

Shoulders cannot be significantly altered by tailoring. If the shoulders don't fit, the coat doesn't fit—regardless of how other areas work. Prioritise shoulder fit above all else when selecting size.

Chest and Torso

With the coat buttoned, you should be able to comfortably slide a flat hand between your chest and the coat front. This ensures room for layering and comfortable breathing without excess fabric creating bulk.

Sleeve Length

Proper sleeve length places the cuff at your wrist bone when arms hang naturally. With arms bent, the cuff should reveal approximately 1-2 centimetres of shirt cuff if wearing formal attire beneath.

Back and Armholes

The back panel should lie flat against your body without pulling horizontally (too tight) or showing vertical wrinkles from excess fabric (too loose). Armholes should allow comfortable arm movement without excessive gaping.

Perform the movement test: reach both arms forward as if gripping a steering wheel. Quality fit allows this movement without restriction or the coat riding up significantly.

Length

Traditional trench coats hit at or just below the knee. This length flatters most body types and provides practical coverage. However, contemporary options range from above-knee to mid-calf.

âś… Length Tip

Try your trench coat while wearing shoes typical of your intended use. Heel height significantly affects how coat length appears and functions. A coat that seems perfect in flat shoes might appear short with heels, and vice versa.

Fit by Body Type

Tall and Slim

Those with tall, slim frames can wear most trench coat styles successfully. Longer lengths (below knee) work particularly well, as does the classic double-breasted design. Consider structured shoulders to add visual breadth if desired. Avoid extremely oversized cuts that might overwhelm the frame.

Petite

Shorter individuals benefit from shorter trench lengths (at or above knee) to avoid appearing swamped by fabric. Single-breasted styles create a longer visual line than double-breasted options. Ensure shoulder fit is precise—dropped shoulders emphasise petite stature.

Athletic Build

Those with broad shoulders and narrower waists often find classic trench coats flattering—the design naturally emphasises the shoulder-to-waist ratio. Ensure adequate chest room without excess waist fabric. Belted styles highlight the athletic silhouette well.

Full Figure

Look for trenches with structured construction that creates clean lines rather than clinging to curves. Classic fits with defined shoulders prove most flattering. Avoid extremely fitted styles. Vertical design elements (front closures, long lines) elongate the silhouette.

Curvy

Belted trench coats work wonderfully for those with defined waists. The belt creates hourglass emphasis. Ensure adequate room through bust and hips without excess fabric at the waist. Classic length (at knee) typically proves most balanced.

Trying On: A Systematic Approach

Follow this process when trying trench coats to evaluate fit comprehensively:

Step 1: Wear Appropriate Underlayers

Try the coat over clothing similar to what you'll typically wear beneath it. If you'll layer over suits, wear a jacket. If casual wear is more likely, wear a medium-weight sweater. This prevents purchasing too small for actual use.

Step 2: Check Shoulders First

Before evaluating anything else, assess shoulder fit. If shoulders don't work, move to a different size regardless of other areas.

Step 3: Button and Belt

Fasten all buttons and cinch the belt at your natural waist. Evaluate chest room, waist definition, and overall silhouette. Look for strain, pulling, or excessive looseness.

Step 4: Movement Test

With coat fastened, perform several movements:

The coat should allow comfortable movement without significant restriction or riding up.

Step 5: Mirror Assessment

View yourself from multiple angles—front, side, and back if possible. Check for pulling, bunching, or asymmetry. The coat should hang evenly with clean lines from all perspectives.

Step 6: Unbelted and Unbuttoned

Repeat the assessment with coat open. Many wear their trench unbuttoned regularly, so ensure it looks intentional and flattering in this configuration too.

🔑 The Final Test

Ask yourself: "Do I feel confident and comfortable?" Fit technicalities matter, but ultimately your coat should make you feel good wearing it. If something feels "off" despite checking technical points, trust your instincts.

Common Fit Problems and Solutions

Pulling at Buttons

Solution: Size up, or have a tailor move buttons slightly for better closure. Alternatively, wear unbuttoned and belted.

Excess Fabric at Back

Solution: This often indicates too large overall. Size down or consider having the back panel taken in by a tailor.

Sleeves Too Long

Solution: Sleeves can typically be shortened by a tailor. However, if adjustment required exceeds 5 cm, consider whether the coat is fundamentally wrong size.

Rides Up When Arms Raised

Solution: The coat may be too small overall or have armholes set too high. Try sizing up or seeking different cut.

Gaps at Collar

Solution: Collar gaps often indicate shoulder fit issues. Ensure correct shoulder alignment. Some gap when collar is turned up is normal.

When to Involve a Tailor

Professional alterations can perfect near-perfect fit. Tailors can typically:

Tailors cannot effectively:

If a coat needs extensive alteration, it's likely the wrong size or cut for your body. Seek alternatives rather than forcing incompatible fit through tailoring.

JC

James Chen

Textile Care Specialist at Trench Coat Australia

James combines his background in textile science with practical fashion knowledge to help readers preserve their favourite garments. He's particularly passionate about sustainable care practices that extend clothing lifespan.